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2020-10-01
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[Eye On Kinman] 漫遊金門的歷史與美麗 – 漫步古崗湖

金門,距離中國的廈門最近的島嶼,1949年國民黨退出大陸之後,因為地理位置因素,兩岸的猛烈炮火戰役造就金門特有的戰場歷史與軍事文化。鮮少有人知道,這裡同時也蘊藏著最完整的南方福建閩南的人文風情,也因此少有人會把美麗與這個特殊的島嶼畫上等號。透過我們記者的實地採訪,帶你們探索這個戰火島嶼在砲火之外另一份不同的文化美景。

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漫步古崗湖

在古崗湖的周邊有許多歷史的古蹟,除了眾所周知的翟山坑道,還有被定為國定三級古蹟獻台山的「漢影雲根」碣,這裡的歷史可以追溯到350年前,明朝末年魯王朱以海為明太祖朱元璋第十世孫,明清交戰,明朝遺族節節敗至中國南方,建立政權,史稱南明;永曆五年(西元1651年)魯王朱以海逃至廈門依靠於金廈擁兵的鄭成功,居於金門,並於獻台山上大石刻下「漢影雲根」碣。金門史學家董森堡告訴我們,魯王朱以海刻下這四個字的意思眾說紛紜,最多人的說法應該是〝周圍的群山環繞,看著天空漂浮著白色的雲,想起明朝漢室的國土,而現在的我如同沒有根的浮雲,漂流在金門的這個島嶼〞。原有的石碣只剩下〝漢影雲〞三個字崩塌在旁,根字已經消失。現在我們看到的「漢影雲根」碣是後人依據原始題字重新複刻的,為觀光客到古根湖必遊的景點之一。

IMG_8277 修改走在古崗湖附近的觀止步道上,董森堡帶我們看到鄭成功的岳父同時也是南明文人董颺先,因為明朝的衰敗被迫留居金門,為了宣洩自己那份急於復興明朝與鄉愁的情感,因而在這裡留下的各式詩詞碑碣。在這裡,我們彷彿在史學家的帶領下走入了時光隧道,俯瞰下方的古崗湖,感受在南明的時空環境下吟賦著詩詞,體會著歷史人物那惆悵的心境。史學家董森堡表示:「這些詩詞碑碣的史蹟在獻台山中被樹叢草木埋沒,經過多數人的努力才被發現。」透過國史專家的編釋,好讓後人可以了解這一份歷史。這個山林中或許還有更多沒被發現的古蹟正等著更多有心的人去發掘。

IMG_8319 edit離開獻台山,回到古崗村的青山排教練場,會發現了很多彩繪的木馬。這裡曾經是軍隊的靶場,在荒廢之後經過古崗村民的改造,舉辦活動並增加了很多彩繪木馬,也成為現在社群平台熱門的打卡景點了。當我們進一步探詢為什麼在地人是選擇木馬來做特色景象,董森堡解釋:「唐代的時候有個專司牧馬的官員叫做陳淵,被派任到舊稱梧州的金門來養馬,從此馬對於金門人日常中的依賴也變得更是重要,就連犁田的動物也是馬來協助農務;當地居民認為馬是最能符合這裡特色的一個代表,最後決定透過舉辦彩繪木馬的活動來為在地增加觀光特色。」很可惜去年莫蘭蒂風災之後部分的彩繪木馬有損壞的情況,正在陸續修復中。

喝杯茶,欣賞歐厝的日落

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IMG_8325 edit歐厝聚落是金門七大聚落之一,有四百年的歷史,其中順天洋樓為金門的第一棟古洋樓,去年經過主人整理後現在是一個茶藝館,客人可以坐下來喝杯茶,感受一下這個歷史聚落的雋永。

洋樓的主人歐陽自永表示:自己的先祖曾經到東南亞經商,後來賺了錢回到金門便蓋起了金門第一間的洋樓,從此後也有很多金門人移民到東南亞做生意,賺了錢之後回到金門便會改起這樣的洋樓來展示自己的財力,並回饋給家鄉的家人,雖然叫做洋樓,西式風格的建築上也包含了閩南的文化是這個洋樓的特色。

歐厝聚落鄰近海邊,因此早年會有很多海盜從歐厝附近的海岸上岸來搶劫,攻擊這裡的居民,因此歐厝的洋樓與金門其他洋樓有個不同特色,會將五英尺的走到移到建築的後方,架構上也更加堅固。

來到歐厝聚落的遊客除了可以到洋樓裡品嘗各式各樣的茶點,還可以挑選貓頭鷹主題紀念品帶回家,因為貓頭鷹可是店主人最喜歡的寵物。在晴朗的午後喝杯茶漫步在歐厝的聚落裡,看著金黃的落日撒在歐厝聚落的洋樓上,享受歐厝這份特有的美麗。

到碧山聚落喝杯咖啡,手作傳統小吃DIY

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IMG_5059 edit近幾年在地方人士的改造下,繽紛的彩繪讓碧山聚落成為金門東部最美裡的村莊。村里的老奶奶很熱情教導遊客如何手做傳統小吃〝紅龜粿〞,紅龜粿是一個用糯米製成傳統閩南客家小吃甜食,以花生粉與糖混和做為內餡,黃色的外觀與台灣本島印象中紅色的有稍微的不同,通常是作為在地民眾節日或祭祀的祭品。村里也有店家會提供咖啡豆烘焙的DIY,遊客可以自己烘焙自己的咖啡豆。金門並沒有盛產咖啡,而是由自東南亞回來的金門僑胞帶回來。因而成為金門另一項特色產品。走在碧山村裡,閩南的特色建築裡多了點繽紛的彩繪,讓碧山村成為金門新興的熱門景點。

碧山村裡有兩個特別突出的景點,在眾多閩南建築裡,〝睿友學校〞與〝陳清吉洋樓〞的巴洛克式建築更顯耀眼,陳睿友與陳清吉都是在東南亞經商有成後,回到金門蓋了這兩棟洋樓,特別的是陳睿友為回饋鄉里,免費提供聚落子弟免費就學。使得睿友學校除了建築特色外更具意義。陳清吉洋樓也受到導演鈕承澤的青睞特地將此地成為其電影作品〝軍中樂園〞場景之一,這部電影是在敘述1960至1970年代,金門軍事妓院的故事,喜歡跟隨明星腳步的旅客千萬不能錯過。

住進〝校長的家〞,體驗金門閩南旅宿
IMG_8414 edit如果你想像當地人一樣住在閩南風格的老屋,越來越多人選擇閩南建築的民宿,這些民宿都是有政府認證的,像是珠山聚落裡面有很多古雅的閩南民宿可以給你選擇,例如:〝校長的家〞,這裡曾經是當地的一所學校所改建,裡面有很多古雅的中國風裝飾,不管是門框、桌椅、床組等,讓你在滿滿的閩南建築裡面體會當地的人文風情,加上民宿本身也很有年紀了,有時候樓地板常傳出搖晃的聲響,搭配中式的布置,使旅客有懷古思情的感觸。

 

由於金門當地較無法處理垃圾問題,需要將可回收物品運回高雄才能處理,因此在地民宿會更有綠色環保意識,在校長的家,它們並不提供牙刷、牙膏等耗材,如果選擇這類的民宿請先自備或是要先詢問店家。傳統的金門早餐也是當地民宿的一項特色,像是廣東粥、豆漿還有雙胞胎與油條,與在地人一樣和著粥或豆漿一起食用,既美味又能讓旅客真正有融入在地的民眾生活的感受。吃完早餐再到外面的珠山聚落散散步,走在紅磚的圍牆旁,呼吸著清晨微涼的空氣,並欣賞聚落裡傳統閩南建築的優雅與特色。

編輯小記:

對於喜歡歷史與傳統建築的人,金門是值得參觀的好地方,您可以與當地導遊預約,透過導覽的幫助,加深對金門特有的閩南文化認知與了解,雖然大部分的景點有英語解說,但大部分當地的導遊都不會說英文。作為一個初次到訪金門的旅客,所到之處都有不同啟發性的體驗,在地的導遊會說很多流傳下來的故事來介紹金門的文化給旅客,讓旅客從這些故事中可以更快的認識金門。很多人對於金門的印象只有戰場、牡蠣與高粱酒(烈酒),但走進島上不同的聚落,會發現更多金門迷人的歷史與特色。

::導覽資訊::

想預約中文導覽 可以到 金門古崗自然村 粉絲專頁
或 致電 碧山東店社區發展協會
電話: 0921560414 陳理事長

紅龜粿DIY :十人以上一組 每人新台幣 NT$ 160

咖啡烘焙DIY:三人每組新台幣 NT$ 450

 

 

英文原文連結
https://eyeontw.com/archives/3984

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