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追溯順德名菜、尋訪肉骨茶起源 米其林三星頤宮中餐廳 重現料理經典風華

君品專業餐飲團隊前往擁有「粵菜之源」美譽的廣東順德(古稱鳳城)尋訪老味道,並與飲食作家陳靜宜,一同查訪馬來西亞最具特色的庶民美食「肉骨茶」的源起,此行邀請到馬來西亞肉骨茶創始人李文地的第三代傳人–「奇香肉骨茶」負責人李峰賢先生,於2019年7月16日至7月21日來台,與頤宮中餐廳米其林三星主廚攜手重現馬來西亞「正宗肉骨茶」

201906270005 2

201906270005 (5).jpg   君品酒店頤宮中餐廳自開幕以來,相繼邀請海外各地具特色的餐飲店家來台交流,帶給台灣消費者國際化的美食饗宴。由於頤宮提供多元豐富的粵菜料理,因此,君品專業餐飲團隊前往擁有「粵菜之源」美譽的廣東順德(古稱鳳城)尋訪老味道,並與飲食作家陳靜宜,一同查訪馬來西亞最具特色的庶民美食「肉骨茶」的源起,此行邀請到馬來西亞肉骨茶創始人李文地的第三代傳人「奇香肉骨茶」負責人李峰賢先生,2019716日至721來台,與頤宮中餐廳米其林三星主廚攜手重現馬來西亞「正宗肉骨茶」,以及世界美食之都廣東順德「逝去的老味道」,午宴價格NT$3,280+10%、晚宴價格NT$4,980+10%,帶領賓客深度探索百年經典美味。

巴生港肉骨茶創始傳奇  首次海外客座在頤宮                     

201906270005 (3) 許多華人為了生存,必須遠離故鄉至南洋發展,馬來西亞的「巴生港」是華工聚集地之一。李文地在巴生鐵橋旁販賣燉肉骨,簡稱「肉骨地」,而福建話裡「地」跟「茶」的發音十分類似,加上閩南一帶吃肉配茶用以解膩,不明就裡的人聯想成「肉骨茶」,李文地也順應民意掛起招牌,成了肉骨茶一詞的由來;肉骨茶流傳至今,光是巴生地區號稱擁有500多間肉骨茶店,可見當地人對於肉骨茶的喜愛。根據《啊,這味道》作者陳靜宜的評析,巴生港的碼頭地緣關係與華工生活型態,加上當地特有的搭配與吃法,是肉骨茶最重要的奧義與精隨。

 

201906270005 (1)    肉骨茶在發源地「巴生」超過70年的發展,至今已經擁有高達數百家的肉骨茶店。頤宮中餐廳主廚團隊,為了帶給賓客最正宗的味道,深入訪查肉骨茶創始與脈絡,發現1960年代時,李文地的兒子保留父親獨門製程與配方,創辦了「奇香」這個品牌,現由李文地之孫李峰賢接掌馬來西亞6間餐廳及新加坡2間餐廳。「奇香肉骨茶」以最傳統的方式熬製,運用了當歸、黨參、紅棗、八角…等16種頂級純中藥材細磨精製,完全無化學色素、合成香料;除了遵循傳統,奇香也賦予肉骨茶新的面貌,例如大受歡迎的「乾」肉骨茶,便是使用少量濃湯及醬汁慢火燉煮,讓醬汁入味到肉骨中,讓頤宮餐飲團隊十分驚艷!目前奇香更發展出肉骨茶料理包、方便麵等業務,每月在全球銷售可達3萬包,推廣肉骨茶不遺餘力。因此,頤宮團隊力邀奇香肉骨茶來台進行首次海外客座,帶給台灣朋友最經典的好味道。

頤宮神廚嚐百味  三顧鳳城百姓家

為了搭配濃醇香的肉骨茶,讓具歷史意義的好味道具備層次感,頤宮中餐廳效法神農嚐百草的精神,率隊實地訪查被稱為「粵菜之源」的廣東順德地區。順德擁有「世界美食之都」、「中國廚師之鄉」、「中國美食名城」等諸多美譽,明清時期就是物產豐隆的富庶之地,加上當地美食風氣鼎盛,所以有「食在廣州,廚出鳳城」之說,可見順德(古稱鳳城)之於中華料理的重要性。頤宮餐飲團隊一步一腳印,探訪了無數當地店家與居民,挖掘出稀世佳餚,以饗台灣饕客們的味蕾。

雖然順德菜被稱之為粵菜之源,卻與台灣民眾熟悉的粵菜風味截然不同;順德盛行「桑基魚塘」的農漁業生產方式,特別擅長烹煮海鮮類食材,加上當地菜餚料理方式較為清爽順口,可與味道濃烈的肉骨茶互相輝映與融合。這也是頤宮餐廳蟬聯米其林三星榮譽後的自我要求與突破,不斷以用心與巧思,讓華人乃至於亞洲地區的料理,激盪出更多不同的可能性,不斷帶給賓客驚豔的用餐體驗。

「逝去的老味道」客座特色菜簡介:

「春花捲」:又稱為「春花肉」,起源於清末民初,是古老的順德名菜。封建年代的民間宴席分為男席、女席,男席有「野雞卷」,女席則是「春花捲」。春花捲不僅用於宴席,七、八十年前,街頭小販沿街叫賣炸得酥脆甘香的「春花捲」,受到庶民的歡迎。春花捲內餡是豬五花、雞肝、韭菜,並以五香粉、鹽巴調味,捲成筒狀後切段油炸至香脆酥化,適合佐酒下飯。

「花椒蒸活魚」:桑基魚塘的生產模式,造就順德人擅長處理魚料理。而此道料理不同於順德人過去以「清淡鮮美」來處理活魚料理,因應時下年輕人追尋刺激口感需求,近幾年順德流行運用「花椒」來烹煮活魚。作法是將魚切成片,讓魚肉沾滿花椒油,如此一來,片片麻香撲鼻,在炎夏食用更加醒神開胃。

「正宗大馬創始奇香肉骨茶排骨乾鍋」:不同於傳統肉骨茶加入滿滿中藥湯底的作法,乾肉骨茶除了主角肉骨外,加入了魷魚、秋葵,小乾辣椒,淋上醬油後,僅加入少量濃湯慢火燉煮,燉煮過程必須不時攪拌以免醬油造成燒焦或黏鍋,乾肉骨茶味道更加濃郁並帶有絲絲清甜,風味十分獨特。

201906270005 (2)逝去的老味道客座活動

  • 時間:2019716日晚餐起至2019721日止
  • 地點:君品酒店「頤宮中餐廳」(台北市承德路一段317)
  • 電話:(02)2181-9985/86
  • 菜單內容/價格:
 

午宴菜單

每位 NT$3,280+10%

 

家鄉小炒花生苗、春花捲、

順德豬血時蔬、荷葉蒸腊味

順德粥水肥牛盅

窩貼沙律大明蝦

砂鍋燜燒土雞佐烏參

花椒蒸活魚

正宗大馬創始奇香肉骨茶

(排骨乾鍋、五花骨、三層肉、豬腳、腳彎、雞腳、肥腸、豬尾、節瓜、白飯)

養顏核桃包

傳統片糖麵皮糖水

 

晚宴菜單

每位 NT$4,980+10%

 

春花捲、家鄉小炒花生苗

順德豬血時蔬、叉燒片鵝肝、荷葉蒸腊味

龍皇餃蟲草花湯盅

窩貼沙律大明蝦

砂鍋燜燒甲魚.燒肉.活鮑

花椒蒸活魚

正宗大馬創始奇香肉骨茶

(排骨乾鍋、五花骨、三層肉、豬腳、腳彎、雞腳、肥腸、豬尾、節瓜、白飯)

養顏核桃包

傳統片糖麵皮糖水

 

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